Finally: Organized F35 transmission fluid thread

[xxxxsh4d0wxxxx]

Well, while I was away, I was still reading around on the forum, and I finally noticed.. Here in the drivetrain section, we don't even have a sticky thread, with given information, for the F35 (SS/SC) transmission fluid, or even for the F35 (SS/TC). I recently bought the fluid for mine, with not much help from previous threads. I would guess that over 85% of them contained incorrect information. We have people using the wrong fluid, with the wrong additives in the fluid, wrong weight of fluid, wrong amount of fluid, etc. Also, the How-To that we DO have for the F35 (SS/SC) transmission, was completely incorrect. The OP who made the How-To, used Mobil-1 straight GL in his transmission. We need to offer correct information for people on this forum who are in search of learning about this car. On to the information.. 1) The F35 (SS/SC) does take a 75W-90, GL-4, transmission fluid. 2) You DO NOT, I cannot make this any clearer, DO NOT, want friction modifiers! The friction modifiers will not allow the synchronizers in the transmission to work properly. This goes for BOTH the SS/SC and the SS/TC. 3) As for the limited-slip.. Ours are sealed. They are "Quaife ATB" differentials, and the lubricant does not affect them. AT ALL! This is why you DO NOT need limited-slip additives! This goes for BOTH the SS/SC and the SS/TC. 3a) *Side note* - This is why the How-To, (On this forum), is incorrect. The OP used 75W-90, WITH limited-slip additives. He is throwing differential gear fluid, in his transmission. The fluid is too slippery for proper synchronizer operation. 4) Even though the F35 comes with GL-4, you might want to use an aftermarket GL-5, if you feel need be. You can, although, make sure it is the correct specs as mentioned above! MOST GL-5's meet or exceed GL-4 specs. 5) The F35, (SS/SC) transmission, comes with fluid part number 21018899.. While The F35, (SS/TC) transmission, comes with fluid part number 88862472. 6) SS/TC guys, I would ABSOLUTELY NOT run anything other than part number 88862472, this is the most current GM fluid for your transmission. 7) SS/SC guys, feel free to use part number 88862472, in fact, I HIGHLY recommend it. It is a 75W-85 GL-4. It is the new "standard", over the old 21018899. 8) IF you feel the need to go aftermarket on the fluid, the ONLY fluid I recommend is - Red-Line 75W-90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil, and I ONLY recommend it for the SS/SC guys. You NEED 75W-90 NS, if you plan on using this fluid, because there is regular 75W-90, which has friction modifiers. It does not matter if you have G85 or not. Like I said earlier, our limited-slip is a sealed unit. No fluid you put in there, will see it. 9) DO NOT use Royal Purple, or any of that synchromesh garbage. Either stick with the 2 factory numbers I provided, or the Red-Line fluid. NO IF'S AND'S OR BUT'S!! 10) The transmission fluid should be changed around, in my opinion, 60k. As for the amount, you will need to buy 2 quarts. However, it will only take 1.7 quarts. 11) The code for the SS/SC transmission is F35-MC2. The code for the SS/TC transmission is F35-MU3. Feel free to ask questions. I believe everything has been clearly answered, though.

[cmatthewb101]

Sub'd

[68Vette]

Good write-up!!! Sub'd

[xxxxsh4d0wxxxx]

Thank you!

I am going back and editing it a bit, to make sure everything is clear and easy to understand.

Also, I do not plan on giving information about the F23, as I am not extremely familiar with it.

And I have wanted to do this for a while now, I kept putting it off, but if I see another thread about someone using Royal Purple or putting any differential fluid in their car, I am going to cry. Then there are people who are like "Yeah RP is the best man, use it!"

-Facepalm-

[PenguinPIE]

thanks for the info.

would you also include step by step instruction to changing the fluid?

[ls1fbody]

Copy pastaa.

[55supercharged]

Nice write up. I'm not sure on the part numbers since I don't remember but I remember when I went to the dealer the guy looked it up and came out with saturn manual transnission fluid. I might still have a pic of it in my images. If u want to use it.

[SunburstSS]

subd

[xxxxsh4d0wxxxx]

Originally Posted by PenguinPIE

thanks for the info.

would you also include step by step instruction to changing the fluid?

Absolutely, I can write one up. It might take me a bit.. For now I would just follow the one we already have, but just don't use the fluid he uses. Use the part numbers I provided, or the Red Line fluid if you don't want stock.

Originally Posted by ls1fbody

Copy pastaa.

What makes you draw this assumption?.. Because I took my time, and numbered everything, and highlighted important points, and made it structural? Hence the title..

I just spent my last hour and a half jotting this down from my head, aside from looking up the part numbers because I always forget them.

Go accuse someone else.

Originally Posted by 55supercharged

Nice write up. I'm not sure on the part numbers since I don't remember but I remember when I went to the dealer the guy looked it up and came out with saturn manual transnission fluid. I might still have a pic of it in my images. If u want to use it.

21018899 is available at the Saturn dealership, yes.

[tmharsh]

Originally Posted by xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

3) As for the limited-slip.. Ours are sealed viscous-type units, and the lubricant does not affect them. AT ALL! This is why you DO NOT need limited-slip additives! This goes for BOTH the SS/SC and the SS/TC.

I think our cars use Quiafe differentials; which aren't viscous-type.

[xxxxsh4d0wxxxx]

Originally Posted by tmharsh

I think our cars use Quiafe differentials; which aren't viscous-type.

Mm, as per the GM build book, I stand corrected! Thanks!

Quaife ATB Differential, is the exact model. I must have misread.

However, it is still a sealed unit.

From the Quaife website: "Unlike a plate style LSD the Quaife ATB unit delivers performance without the need for strip downs and rebuilds. There are no plates or gears to wear or break and the ATB units retain standard vehicle lubrication."

[stacy_dammit]

Finally!!! I got tired of searching and evrything said "put Royal Purple" Thank you sir.

[rivaladore]

sub'........changing fluid come spring time

[xxxxsh4d0wxxxx]

Originally Posted by stacy_dammit

Finally!!! I got tired of searching and evrything said "put Royal Purple" Thank you sir.

You're welcome!

Yeah, RP is a BIG no no! But hey.. If 30 people use it and they say it's good, then it must be the right fluid, right?.. Those will be the people jumping off of a cliff together because the first guy did.

[fakameanrepresent]

thanks, 88862472 would be the one i will use since i have the T/C.

[Iam Broke]

Just an FYI...Red Line started recently making a 75w-85 GL-4 fluid, MT-85 that is very similar to Castrol Syntrans specs.

I was told by a trusted source that the LNF fluid is Castrol Syntrans.

In a pinch for the LNF fluid, it may be a viable substitute.

[xxxxsh4d0wxxxx]

Originally Posted by Iam Broke

Just an FYI...Red Line started recently making a 75w-85 GL-4 fluid, MT-85 that is very similar to Castrol Syntrans specs.

I was told by a trusted source that the LNF fluid is Castrol Syntrans.

In a pinch for the LNF fluid, it may be a viable substitute.

Yes, it is Castrol Syntrans, correct. And yes, also correct, Red-Line does make 75W-85 GL-4, which is labeled MT-85, which if you must, can be used.

I did also hear about this, but at this time I'm not sure if I would use it, and many others will say to just use the factory fill.

[csementuh]

Great thread, thanks!

[xxxxsh4d0wxxxx]

Originally Posted by csementuh

Great thread, thanks!

No problem man! I always see questions about fluids in the How-To, and that thread is like 98% wrong information, besides the procedure on how to do it..

[xxxxsh4d0wxxxx]

Got around to changing mine today.

Used the LNF fluid.

It took 1.7 quarts on the dot.

I saw some people say that it takes 1.8-1.9, which is over filled (either way, 0.1-0.2 quart(s) isn't going to kill anything, although overfilling it is not good).

According to the build book also, it is 1.7 for a flush and fill. So if you can only get 1.7 in the trans, then it is full, don't freak out.

[xxxxsh4d0wxxxx]

To The Top!

[Iam Broke]

Need this stickied!

[06ss/scsookool]

Well I am running rp gear max.. And it was like night and day compared to the garbage ATF that was in it.. So what is wrong with royal purple?? In my dad's 3.4 dohc Fiero he was running mobile one and a known problem with them is lifter tick.. So he researched and ppl said to switch to rp it will help with it.. And he did and it stoped so idk what is wrong with rp?? Not trying to be an ass just want to know why??

[LSJ]

Great information! This really should be stickied!

Originally Posted by xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

2) You DO NOT, I cannot make this any clearer, DO NOT, want friction modifiers! The friction modifiers will not allow the synchronizers in the transmission to work properly. This goes for BOTH the SS/SC and the SS/TC.

9) DO NOT use Royal Purple, or any of that synchromesh garbage. Either stick with the 2 factory numbers I provided, or the Red-Line fluid. NO IF'S AND'S OR BUT'S!!

^ I think this answers your question. RP contains friction modifiers, which is bad for the synchronizers.

Originally Posted by 06ss/scsookool

Well I am running rp gear max.. And it was like night and day compared to the garbage ATF that was in it.. So what is wrong with royal purple?? In my dad's 3.4 dohc Fiero he was running mobile one and a known problem with them is lifter tick.. So he researched and ppl said to switch to rp it will help with it.. And he did and it stoped so idk what is wrong with rp?? Not trying to be an ass just want to know why??

[D-mac]

Did some searching tonight and found this on a Benz site

Specs on the Castrol SynTrans oil

http://datasheets.bp.com/bpglis/lubt...A?OpenDocument

Specs on Castrol EP 80w

http://datasheets.bp.com/bpglis/lubt...5?OpenDocument

I emailed Castrol about this to see if its an approved swap since Castrol Syn Trans is near impossible to find accept from GM dealers and im sick of paying almost $50/L for it