thatdaveguy

Basically in COLD WEATHER ONLY, my car makes HORRIBLE front end suspension travel noises. It only happens in below freezing temperatures. To further complicate the problem, washing my car can sometimes fix the problem for a few days at a time... but doesn't always. No matter what, it's always back within a week.

It's VERY loud, you can hear it as clear as day over the stereo and the heater on. Generally it's not very noticeable in normal driving (small squeaking over bumps) but it is really bad on broken roads and speed bumps. Low speeds seem to make the problem much worse. The loudest racket is at like 5mph over a speed bump.

I wish I could describe the sound better... but it's definitely a lot worse than just a bunch of suspension squeaking.

When I was under warranty, the car was in at least 3-4 times for this problem. They did a couple fixes which may have helped slightly (not much) but never actually fixed it...

I'm running factory sized tires so I don't think it's any wheel well bashing (and it doesn't sound like it anyway)...

Ideas?

Coblasts

Sounds like the symptoms I had and the control arm bushings were wore badly and also the stabilizer links were wore out( I think thats what you call them)

tombomb

when it snows hear i get a loud squeaking on bumps, but i heard its just the oil in the shocks too cold, sounds like a POS car but its fine when the weather warms a little, only does it when its really cold with snow on the gorund

chris88z24

I can hear my struts moving up and down when its cold out and i'm hitting moderate sized bumps... the cold stiffens things up a LOT.

DoubleLP

I would say sway bar end links. If you have lowered your car, the OEM ones are known to be NFG in a short amount of time. I would suggest checking out here : http://www.bwoodyperformance.com/

They have a great set of sway bar end links that are a LOT thicker then the OEM ones.

thatdaveguy

I'm not lowered.

I'm also not talking about super cold either. 32F and below. Literally just below freezing... although it's much worse the colder it gets.

how much would repairing these things cost? any guesses?

DoubleLP

I think it is about $150USD for the sway bar end links, and takes no time to do it yourself. Just raise the front of the car (both sides), take off the old end links and put on the new ones. Done!

06G5GT

You guys are close. It's the sway bar bushings making the noise. And replacing them isn't going to help. They shrink when cold since they are rubber. The only thing that might help would be to find an aftermarket set made of urethane.

krispy

same thing that happens to me, I think its just the bushings being cold

thatdaveguy

wow. that's pathetic that this is an unfixable problem...

oh if it matters, forgot in OP... it's an 06 G5 GT

like these? http://www.jbodyperformance.com/new/...catName=JP0925

ech.. $121 for something that might not even fix it... blah, i hate this car

kerr21

Hey did you ever find a fix for this issue? My car is quite bad as well. Sounds almost like my car is bottoming out on the concrete as the suspension goes up and down over good sized bumps. Same thing though only in cold weather. I took it in and had it looked at... they said it was the control arm bushings. They lubricated them, but it didn't do anything.

My wife's SUV actually does the same thing.

Oh BTW my car is a 2007 colbalt SS

Permafried-

GMs bushings overall tend to be weak and wear out far too quickly based on my (and friends of mine who are mechanics) experience. I went through numerous sets in my LS within a 4 year span of owning the car and only accumulated 64,000km on it. I THINK I went through two full sets on the front end. I recall the suspension squeaking consideraly worse in the cold but as stated above I don't believe this was a symptom leading up to their destruction. I seriuosly had no noise one minute, stopped at a stop sign, started going again and all of a sudden I had the most horrendous rumbling and crunching from the front end ever. Sure enough bushings looked like hell and had to be replaced.

HONDAH8R

My Sister In Law Had A Similar Problem Too...only In The Cold, Almost A Loud Banging Noise Over Bumps. Turned Out That The Fluid In The Struts Would Freeze Or Almost, Causing The Loud Bang. When The Temp. Warmed Up...no Noise!!

Stamina

I spoke with a service technician when mine did that on a really cold morning one morning. I was told that it's normal. It's the suspension bushings being cold and harder. Nothing's wrong with you car. It'll go away when it warms up outside.

jerseyfatboy

u have no repairs to wry about wat so ever...metal expands with heat and contracts with cold meaning when its freezing metal parts have more tolerance or more room to move or shift around ...i kno its annoying ive gone thru the same...

rukkee

iTrader: (3)

Service Information
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt | Cobalt, Pursuit (VIN A) Service Manual | View All Bulletins | Document ID: 2239750
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

#04-03-08-006D: Steering and Front Suspension Noise Concerns - Clunk, Thump, Rattle, Knocking, Pop, Shudder, Vibration (Diagnosis and Perform Necessary Repairs) - (Feb 24, 2009)


Subject: Steering and Front Suspension Noise Concerns -- Clunk, Thump, Rattle, Knocking, Pop, Shudder, Vibration (Diagnosis and Perform Necessary Repair)


Models: 2005-2009 Chevrolet Cobalt (Including SS)

2006-2009 Chevrolet HHR (Including SS)

2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)

2007-2009 Pontiac G5

2003-2007 Saturn ION




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to add Condition #3. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-08-006C (Section 03 - Suspension).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin provides information on seven different steering/front suspension noise conditions.

Condition #1
Some customers may comment on a rattle or knocking noise that is heard in the front of the vehicle while driving at low speeds 8-24 km/h (5-15 mph). This condition may be more noticeable while making a slow turn or on a loose/rough surface.

This condition can be duplicated by the technician using the following procedure:

On a rough or loose surface (i.e., gravel parking lot), make a sweeping turn (either direction) at 8-24 km/h (5-15 mph to load the steering column, I-shaft and steering rack/gear mechanisms. The testing on a rough or loose surface will allow the wheels to oscillate slightly and will make the rattle/knocking noise more evident and repeatable.
Release the steering wheel while making the turn to take load off of steering components. This should initiate the rattle/shudder noise, which is generated by backlash in the steering assembly as it is in a no-load float condition.



Remove the 60 amp EPS fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block.
Test the vehicle as in Step 1. Since the EPS motor is no longer powered, only the I-shaft and steering gear/rack will be loaded as you make the turn. If you hear the rattle/knocking noise during the turn, then the noise is being generated by the backlash within the steering column (assist motor gear mechanism).
Replace the 60 amp EPS fuse and repeat Steps 1 and 2 to verify that the rattle/knocking noise disappears when turning (loading steering mechanism) and can only be heard when releasing the steering wheel.
Correction #1
If the steering column is identified as the source of the rattle/knocking noise in the above test, replace the steering column.

Important: The noise in the steering column is generated from the metal to plastic gear backlash of the assist motor mechanism and will have a different sound than that from the steering gear. If the customer comments that they still hear a noise, it may be a different sound from either the I-shaft or the steering rack.

If the steering column is not identified as the source of the rattle/knocking in the above test, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Parts Information #1
For part numbers and usage of the column, see Steering Column Kit in Group 06.518 of the appropriate Parts Catalog. Saturn Retailers should refer to the appropriate model year Parts & Illustration Catalog for the vehicle.

Warranty Information #1
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E7680
Column Assembly, Steering - Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time


Condition #2 (Chevrolet Cobalt, HHR and Pontiac G5 Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk or thump noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road surfaces. This noise will typically occur when the front suspension is returning to the upward position after a hard downward stroke, such as after driving through a large rut or pothole.

Cause #2
This condition may be caused by the jounce bumper slamming into the upper spring seat because it is not retained in the correct up position. The jounce bumper loses position due to oil being deposited onto its retention fingers. The oil is from the strut leaking.

Correction #2
Inspect the front strut(s) for evidence of oil. The leak may be slight but will still cause the concern. If oil is present, replace the affected strut, jounce bumper and dust boot (shield). Before reassembling the strut assembly, glue the new jounce bumper and new dust boot (shield) to the upper spring seat using the steps listed below. To further confirm this concern, the shield/bumper will easily slide up and down the strut shaft.





Clean the surface area of the upper spring seat using fine sandpaper.
Apply a light coat *of 3M™ Automotive Adhesion Promoter, P/N 06396, to the top of the dust boot (shield) on the inside edge and to the top of the bumper. Allow to dry 10 minutes.



Glue the bumper to the inside of the dust boot (shield) as shown. Use *3M™ Duramix™ Super Fast Adhesive, P/N 04747. Allow to cure thoroughly 5-10 minutes at room temperature.
Apply a light coat of *3M™ Automotive Adhesion Promoter, P/N 06396, to the top of the dust boot (shield) and to the upper spring seat surface. Allow to dry 10 minutes.



Glue the dust boot (shield) to the upper spring seat as shown using the above recommended adhesive. Allow to cure thoroughly.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources.

Parts Information #2
Part Number
Description
Qty
Material Allowance

21992520
Shield, Frt Suspension Strut
-
-

22712118
Bumper, Frt Suspension Strut
-
-

04747
3M™ Duramix™ Super Fast Adhesive
1
$22.00

06396
3M™ Automotive Adhesion Promoter
2
$4.00


For part numbers and usage of the strut, see Strut Kit in Group 07.345 of the appropriate Parts Catalog.

Warranty Information #2
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E9478*
Replace Front Strut and Secure Bumper and Shield to Spring Seat
1.5 hrs

Add
To Perform Repair on Other Side
1.3 hrs

Add
For alignment times, refer to operation E2020 and add the applicable times to the regular hours.

* This is a unique labor operation for bulletin use only. The number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.


Condition #3
Some customers may comment on a clunk/pop type noise coming from the front of the vehicle when driving over rough road surfaces.

Cause #3
This noise may be caused by the stabilizer shaft link ball stud becoming contaminated from moisture.

Correction #3
Inspect the front stabilizer shaft links for damage. To isolate the noise, the link can be also be disconnected from the stabilizer shaft. If the link appears damaged or if the noise goes away when disconnected, replace the link with the revised part.

Parts Information #3
Part Number
Description
Usage
Qty

20784686
Link Asm., Front Stabilizer Shaft (300 mm Shaft)
2006-2009 HHR (FE1, FE3)

2005-2009 Cobalt (FE1, FE3)

2005-2006 Pursuit (FE1, FE3)

2007-2009 G5 (FE1, FE3)

2003-2007 ION (FE1, FE2, FE3)
2

20784687
Link Asm., Front Stabilizer Shaft (250 mm Shaft w/Washer)
2008-2009 HHR (FE5)

2005-2009 Cobalt (FE5)

2007-2009 G5 (FE5)
2

20784688
Link Asm., Front Stabilizer Shaft (250 mm Shaft)
2006-2009 HHR (FE1, FE3)

2005-2009 Cobalt (FE5)

2005-2006 Pursuit (FE5)

2007-2009 G5 (FE5)
2


Warranty Information #3
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E2147
Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement (Both Sides)
Use Published Labor Operation Time


Condition #4
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition can also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once for every 90° of steering wheel rotation in either direction. This clunk noise may also be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel.

The following are characteristics of this noise:

• This noise is very random.

• This noise is independent of the steering wheel angle and independent of the bumpiness of the road.

• This noise is a low frequency dull one and can be felt in your feet.

• This noise can normally be heard from the driver seat.

• This noise can be felt upon touching the steering gear from outside of the vehicle.

Note: You might also notice a slight scrub-type noise when turning the wheel back and forth. This type of noise is considered normal and repairs will not eliminate it.

Cause #4
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft.

Correction #4
Important: DO NOT replace the steering gear or steering column assembly.

Replace the intermediate shaft.

Important: If the vehicle has already had a steering intermediate shaft replaced for a similar noise concern that the dealer duplicated, determine from the customer if the noise went away for a period of time and came back, or if the service shaft made no change. If the noise was gone for a period of time and came back, have the dealer replace the shaft again to verify we do not have a defective service shaft.

If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Parts Information #4
Part Number
Description

15800140
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (Cobalt/G5/Pursuit)

15799676
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (ION)

22730246
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (HHR)


Warranty Information #4
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E7700
Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time


Condition #5
Some customers may comment on a rattle/clunk type noise coming from the steering column when driving over bumps.

Correction #5
The following steps have been found to be very effective in removing this condition.





Check for the possibility of the PCM and the TCM rattling/clunking together. If there is contact between these two modules, insulate the modules from each other using a small piece of foam.



Check that the retaining clip on the engine coolant surge tank is fully seated. If not, push down to seat.
Rattles/clunks in this area of the engine compartment may be heard as coming from the steering column while driving.

If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Warranty Information #5
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E9458*
Repair to Correct Rattle/Clunk Noise in Front of Vehicle
0.2 hr

* This is a unique labor operation number for bulletin use only. The number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.


Condition #6 (FE1 Suspension Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk, thump or rattle noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road conditions or when braking.

Cause #6




This condition may be caused by the lower control arm rubber bushing (rear) coming out of its steel sleeve (1). This will cause the lower control arm to make hard contact (2) with the body structure. This condition may be more prevalent in regions that use road salt during the winter months.

Correction #6
If the rubber bushing has moved out of the steel sleeve, replace the lower control arm bushing. Do not replace the bushing if it is still centered in the steel sleeve.

If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose using chassis ears to identify the source of the noise.

Parts Information #6
Part Number
Description

25984679
Bushing, Front Lower Control Arm (Cobalt/G5/HHR/Pursuit)

22688205
Bushing, Front Lower Control Arm (ION)


Warranty Information #6
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E3550
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Right) - Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time

E3551
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Left) - Replace

E3557
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Both) - Replace


Condition #7 (Saturn ION Only)
Some customers may comment on a squeak, rattle, pop, or clunk noise coming from the front of the vehicle during suspension movement.

Cause #7
This condition may be caused by the interface between the front stabilizer shaft, the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and the front stabilizer shaft mounting clamp.

Correction #7
Replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), if necessary, using the following procedure.

Verify the customer comment. Use Chassis Ear (SA9217NE or J39570) or a similar tool to determine the source of the noise. Refer to Noise Diagnosis - Front Suspension in SI.
If the noise is coming from either the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) or the clamps:

Important: Check the Service Parts Identification label in the rear compartment (trunk) to determine the vehicle's suspension system type, then obtain the correct insulators (bushings) corresponding to that suspension system type.


• On vehicles built after VIN breakpoint 4Z125195, replace both front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings). Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.

• On vehicles built up to and including VIN 4Z125195, replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and clamps. Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.

Verify the repair by repeating Step 1.
Parts Information #7
Part Number
Description
Qty

15820162
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2007 FE1 Suspension)
2

15820163
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2007 FE2 Suspension)
2

15820164
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2003-2007 FE3 Suspension)
2

22722387
Clamp, Front Stabilizer Shaft
2


Warranty Information #7
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E2180
Insulator and/or Bracket, Front Stabilizer Shaft - Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time


Condition #8
Some customers may comment on a whine/hum noise from the steering column while making right hand turns at 5-15 mph (8-24 km/h). A slight whine/hum noise is considered to be normal for EPS so it will be helpful to compare to another like vehicle. If the vehicle exhibits excessive feedback/noise when compared to another vehicle, follow the correction procedure below.

Correction #8
Important: DO NOT replace the steering column.





Pull the 60 amp steering fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block. If this eliminates the whine/hum concern, contact the Technical Assistance Center for further information in order to repair the vehicle. If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


Š 2009 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.

jsscooby

That TSB helps me out. I think Im going to print it and bring it to the dealer.

schamsy

sub..

CobaltSSilver

Thank you for posting this. I think one of the problems with clunking on here is the issue I am having and had been trying to get it resolved for about a year now off and on.

rukkee

iTrader: (3)

No problem , glad to help.

Stamina

This helped me too to diagnose the sound coming from my steering column sometimes. Thanks!

kergee6996

I'm haveing somewhat of the same problem but its coming from the exhaust manifold spring rattling. should I just tighten it up or what?

StraussiE WousiE

that TBS is nice. I do believe im having some issues related to it. Great!