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Stft going spiking lean up to +25% lean at times. Getting lots of codes like p0101, p013A, P0455.
also getting closed loop fault from fuel system 1.
Ill post some pictures of the live data. Let me know if anyone has any input. I have unpluged the purge solenoid on the IM and it doesn’t change anything.
So I made a boost leak tester and found a small hole in the cold side coupler. Anyways I patched that and nothing changed really. Ive tested and returned 3 new MAF’s and still getting a p0101. When i unplug MAF and it runs better.
this is almost always A) boost leak (you already potentially covered that)
b) aftermarket intake skewing the trims because it wasn’t tuned for it.
c) bad maf or wiring
this is almost always A) boost leak (you already potentially covered that)
b) aftermarket intake skewing the trims because it wasn’t tuned for it.
c) bad maf or wiring
Going off this, it's probably the ground wire from the MAF side of the loom. I had mine all cleaned up and I basically stopped getting the P0101.
There are 4 grounds that get dirt and crap on them regularly. Mine were - 2 under the oil filter housing, 1 by the radiator shroud on the driver side, and another under the coolant.
Going off this, it's probably the ground wire from the MAF side of the loom. I had mine all cleaned up and I basically stopped getting the P0101.
There are 4 grounds that get dirt and crap on them regularly. Mine were - 2 under the oil filter housing, 1 by the radiator shroud on the driver side, and another under the coolant.
So my automotive professor was messing around with the MAF pigtail wires while I brushed threads and base of the ground connections in front of and under the coolant tank.
After putting the car back together I drove 55 kms home and finally no more codes! The STFT were much more steady (inbetween -3 to +5)
LTFT is still hovers around +7 to +10 but im gonna assume I need a re tune for my K&N SRI.
Also gonna get a new pigtail for the MAF to be safe
since that is also a culprit.
Last edited by karora1226; 04-19-2024 at 06:20 PM.
this is almost always A) boost leak (you already potentially covered that)
b) aftermarket intake skewing the trims because it wasn’t tuned for it.
c) bad maf or wiring
The mods I have are:
GMS1 3 Bar Map
K&N Typhoon SRI
Injen upper chargepipe (Hotside)
Zzp lower charge pipe (Coldside)
ZZP LNF stainless downpipe
GMPP Clutch
ZZP Intercooler
b) aftermarket intake skewing the trims because it wasn’t tuned for it.
Originally Posted by karora1226
K&N Typhoon SRI
Just wanted to add.
The K&N is known to skew trims slightly depending on the rotation of the filter. It still should be tuned for it if it wasn't, but try rotating the filter CW/CCW a little then drive it. You may be able to play with the trims a bit for the better.
I had marked mine after getting it as close as I could before getting it tuned originally. Whenever I need to pull it for cleaning, I can just put it back in the same orientation.
The K&N is known to skew trims slightly depending on the rotation of the filter. It still should be tuned for it if it wasn't, but try rotating the filter CW/CCW a little then drive it. You may be able to play with the trims a bit for the better.
I had marked mine after getting it as close as I could before getting it tuned originally. Whenever I need to pull it for cleaning, I can just put it back in the same orientation.
I'll second this. I had the K&N on mine a ling while ago, when I installed it, I must have gotten lucky no code. I basically stuffed it on there and off I went, I cleaned it a few months later, and after i dried, i stuffed it back and had a code. Pulled it off put it back on code stayed around. Did some searching and seen it needed to be on a certain way, fixed it a shortly there after the code went away. Seems strange but 🤷♂️
My k&n pre tune was +/-5 but you need to clock the filter. It’s not round and it affects the air the maf sees. I believe it was roughly 7-8oclock was best on mine, (like top of the k&n symbol facing that way) clocked the opposite way I would see 7-8+\-
the other question I would have is do you have an aftermarket blow off valve on your charge pipes? Or are you using the factory bpv on the turbo?
Vent to atmosphere style blow off valves will screw trims bad if you don’t have a maf relocate and tune for it.
My k&n pre tune was +/-5 but you need to clock the filter. It’s not round and it affects the air the maf sees. I believe it was roughly 7-8oclock was best on mine, (like top of the k&n symbol facing that way) clocked the opposite way I would see 7-8+\-
the other question I would have is do you have an aftermarket blow off valve on your charge pipes? Or are you using the factory bpv on the turbo?
Vent to atmosphere style blow off valves will screw trims bad if you don’t have a maf relocate and tune for it.
way off topic but in you signature... was your 1/4 mile time on the z54?
"Best ET 13.77 @ 104mph with a 2.31 60ft (bad-2-3 shift) 😡"
Solved: Alright so running it the next day and clearing the codes caused the fuel trims to go crazy again. After finding out the EXH fuse is for the MAF and both O2 sensors I checked the fusebox. lowe and behold my blown 10 amp fuse… anyways i grabbed one of the spares and voila. So any LNF’s experiencing the same problem.. look at your EXH fuse
My k&n pre tune was +/-5 but you need to clock the filter. It’s not round and it affects the air the maf sees. I believe it was roughly 7-8oclock was best on mine, (like top of the k&n symbol facing that way) clocked the opposite way I would see 7-8+\-
the other question I would have is do you have an aftermarket blow off valve on your charge pipes? Or are you using the factory bpv on the turbo?
Vent to atmosphere style blow off valves will screw trims bad if you don’t have a maf relocate and tune for it.
No blow off just the stock bpv with vacuum tank delete. Also I reference my position with the metal strip on the filer. What position should that be facing?
Edit: Just tried with top on k&n facing 7-8 and the metal strip is about 2 o’clock
Last edited by karora1226; 04-23-2024 at 05:23 PM.
So guys it seems I have found the reason for the blown fuse. I am getting a “P0113 Sensor high voltage” and IAT is stuck at -40 c.
I know the blue wire (wire E) on the maf is for IAT but it looks fine. Should i be looking at anything else? How do I go about this?
Glad you are getting it sorted. Definitely sound like wiring at this point. I'd bet that voltage high is one of the 5v reference wires, unfortunately I don't know enough about wiring and how to figure out what is what, maybe someone will be able to come through with a diagram for you.
This is from the HHR SS, but my understanding is it should be the same. Post #2/#6, someone may be able to get a better diagram, this was just trying to search the web quick.
This is from the HHR SS, but my understanding is it should be the same. Post #2/#6, someone may be able to get a better diagram, this was just trying to search the web quick.
Haven’t been able to figure it out. Took the car to the stealership for a ignition cylinder recall and asked them to diag the problem. They charged me 200$ for diag just to tell me they don't know whats wrong but they cut my harness shorter. Thank you chevy.
Last edited by karora1226; 05-03-2024 at 04:42 AM.
Took back in to the dealership the next morning so they could be a bit more definitive. They told me they tested the low reference to the IAT and it is fine. They are now pointing at the ecm. I feel a little skeptical, I guess a spare ecm wont hurt. Anyone got a spare one?
04-06-2024, 10:51 PM
